﻿<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:blogChannel="http://backend.userland.com/blogChannelModule"><channel><title>Gaddy's</title><link>http://www.gaddys.com/</link><description>Blog feed for Gaddy's</description><copyright>Copyright 2012 Gaddy's</copyright><item><title>Aerating</title><link>http://www.gaddys.com/articles/view/?article=5</link><description>Aerating your yard relieves the pressure from compaction on your soil. Aerating helps water and air penetrate to the roots of your grass where it is needed. Compacted soil actually repels water and allows it to run off instead. We rent Plug Aerators by the hour for you to do it yourself. The units are fairly large, so you may need a pickup truck to take it home. The best time to aerate is when the grass is actively growing, so timing it with your application of fertilizer would be perfect as it &amp;hellip;</description><pubDate>Sat, 19 May 2012 17:48:44 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Baby Chicks</title><link>http://www.gaddys.com/articles/view/?article=4</link><description>Now that spring is almost here, we have begun carring baby chicks again. Just arrived Feb 16, we have&amp;nbsp;25 Plymoth Barred Rocks and 25 Rhode Island Reds. All are supposed to be little girls, but they can't ever be 100% sure. Check with your HOA to see if you can have a couple back yard gals of your own. 
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Gaddy's A great place to pick up chicks.
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Mark</description><pubDate>Sat, 19 May 2012 17:48:44 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Fertilizing</title><link>http://www.gaddys.com/articles/view/?article=3</link><description>Fertilizing. Trees and shrubs should be fertilized in early spring, which would be the last part of February thru March. We carry quality granular blends for regular trees and shrubs as well as for fruiting or flowering trees.Lawns won't need fertilizing until about April 1, a week or two before or after won't matter much, but I like to wait until April 1 anyway. We have organic options including my favorite, Ladybug 8-2-4, which covers 4170 sqft and is 28.99. The special blend "Brown Bag" that &amp;hellip;</description><pubDate>Sat, 19 May 2012 17:48:44 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Existing Weeds</title><link>http://www.gaddys.com/articles/view/?article=2</link><description>Kill the weeds you already have before they have a chance to drop any more seeds for next year. There are grassy weeds and then there are "broadleaf" weeds, which can best be described as not looking like grass. The main ones to worry about would be the broadleaf ones, as that is the ones you can actually kill without harming your base(established bermuda or st augustine) grass. For large areas we have Fertilome Weed Free Zone, or for smaller areas 8,000sqft coverage would be Wipe Out from Green&amp;hellip;</description><pubDate>Sat, 19 May 2012 17:48:44 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Pre-emergent</title><link>http://www.gaddys.com/articles/view/?article=1</link><description>Spring is almost here, over the next few days, I will post some things you might be doing in your yard soon.
Pre-emergent weed prevention, which means applying a "seed killer" to your yard, shoud be applied in February.&amp;nbsp;These products block a chemical reaction in a seed while it is germinating or soon after, killing the young plant. They do not do anything to grasses, or weeds for that matter, that are already established. They can be used in your yard and ornamental beds as well. Corn glu&amp;hellip;</description><pubDate>Sat, 19 May 2012 17:48:44 GMT</pubDate></item></channel></rss>
